Entering Ukraine was a laugh thanks to the young customs officer who said incredulously , "you are coming here on that piece of shit? ". He soon apologised and we got on well.
My contact, through Couchsurfing, was senior student Janos, who is actually Hungarian, but as an amateur history nut he probably knew more about this former outpost of the Austro-Hungarian empire than the locals. He was good company throughout.
What can I say about the city? Only that the roads are simply the worst I've ever ridden (including Vespa Raid Morocco) but both the buildings and the women are fantastically well constructed.
It was clear though that my idea to ride across Ukraine to Slovakia would probably result in a smashed scooter. With no spare hub, shock or indeed insurance, I made the difficult decision to head south into Romania again and take a far longer but ultimately safer route through Hungary...